Spring must be here. I’ve seen the first daffodils and there are even a few squill. Gardeners all over Indianapolis are planting pansies to brighten up still-dreary landscapes. One innovative gardener even mixed lettuce in with the pansies for added interest.
It’s time to start thinking about fertilizing your bulbs. The roots of bulbs absorb the most nutrients as the leaves emerge from the soil, so now is the time to fertilize. Apply 1-2 pounds of 10-10-10 or equivalent for every 100 square feet. To estimate the volume of 1 pound of fertilizer, assume one liquid ounce is equivalent to one dry ounce, so 1 pounds of fertilizer is 16 dry ounces, equivalent to 16 liquid ounces or two cups. A little math will then tell you that 1 pound fertilizer for 100 square feet is about the same as 1 teaspoon for 1 square foot.
Unfortunately, I’m going to miss this year’s bulb show. I’ll be out of town.
Fortunately, I’m going to be in Arizona. I’ll do my best to give you a view of gardening in Arizona, so check this blog frequently.
*****
One of my favorite daffodils is a variety called Tete-a-Tete. It's only about 6 inches and is one of the earliest daffodils to bloom. It's unusual because there are often two flowers on a single flower stem.
Friday, March 28, 2008
Friday, March 21, 2008
Time to start the lawnmowers?
Our wet, cold March is slowly creeping by. Already the cool season lawn grasses common in Indiana – Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue – have begun to grow. Though mowing now is likely to leave ruts in the wet soil, it’s time to think about that first time around the yard.
I recently attended a seminar by one of Purdue’s turf experts, Dr. Zac Reicher. He made some interesting points:
- In spring, grass grows quickly and should be mown often. The first mowing can make the grass shorter than 3 inches, but for all future mowings, set the lawnmower height at 3-4”.
- Wet grass may tempt you to wait a few days to mow. Don’t! If you have to choose between two evils – mowing wet grass and letting the grass get really tall before you mow – choose to mow wet grass.
- If you’ve already applied a crabgrass prevention product, great! It will stay active for the next couple of months and keep crabgrass from germinating in your yard. If you haven’t, make sure to get the product on your lawn by the middle of April. Look closely at the product label and choose the brand with the least amount of nitrogen fertilizer. If it has no fertilizer in it at all, that’s even better. April is not the time to apply lawn fertilizer. It will only make your grass grow and increase your mowing. For information on how to calculate the amount of nitrogen, see http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/tips/2008/3_17preemergence.html.- The best time to treat broadleaf weeds in your lawn is autumn. If you still have a few dandelions popping up, wait until they are blooming, then spot treat just the dandelions. They will be more susceptible to the herbicide at that time.
I recently attended a seminar by one of Purdue’s turf experts, Dr. Zac Reicher. He made some interesting points:
- In spring, grass grows quickly and should be mown often. The first mowing can make the grass shorter than 3 inches, but for all future mowings, set the lawnmower height at 3-4”.
- Wet grass may tempt you to wait a few days to mow. Don’t! If you have to choose between two evils – mowing wet grass and letting the grass get really tall before you mow – choose to mow wet grass.
- If you’ve already applied a crabgrass prevention product, great! It will stay active for the next couple of months and keep crabgrass from germinating in your yard. If you haven’t, make sure to get the product on your lawn by the middle of April. Look closely at the product label and choose the brand with the least amount of nitrogen fertilizer. If it has no fertilizer in it at all, that’s even better. April is not the time to apply lawn fertilizer. It will only make your grass grow and increase your mowing. For information on how to calculate the amount of nitrogen, see http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/tips/2008/3_17preemergence.html.- The best time to treat broadleaf weeds in your lawn is autumn. If you still have a few dandelions popping up, wait until they are blooming, then spot treat just the dandelions. They will be more susceptible to the herbicide at that time.
Thursday, March 6, 2008
Time to Prune?
Many people know that late winter/early spring is a great time to prune many trees and shrubs. So, grab your pruners and rush right out – NO, wait!
It’s important to remember that not all plants need to be pruned in spring. Some plants, many viburnums for example, don’t need annual pruning. Always remember why you are pruning. There are several good reasons to prune in early spring:
- To remove broken or dead branches. These will be easy to see early in the season but can also be pruned out any time you notice them.
- To remove branches that cross (see photo to right) or branches that are growing inward or straight up. Such branches will crowd the major scaffolding branches of the plant, reducing light penetration. The plant will not grow as well as be as healthy unless some of the excess is removed.
- To improve plant structure. Especially on a young tree, you may find you need to remove a double leader (see photo to left) or cut off branches growing from a narrow crotch angle or that are crowded on one side of the trunk.
It’s also important to remember that not all trees and shrubs should be pruned in late winter/early spring. If the plant is grown mainly for summer foliage, now is the time to prune. However, if the plant is grown for spring flowers – forsythia, lilac, spirea, crabapples, hawthorns, and dogwoods, to name a few – don’t prune now. These shrubs and trees should be pruned after flowering.
It’s important to remember that not all plants need to be pruned in spring. Some plants, many viburnums for example, don’t need annual pruning. Always remember why you are pruning. There are several good reasons to prune in early spring:
- To remove broken or dead branches. These will be easy to see early in the season but can also be pruned out any time you notice them.
- To remove branches that cross (see photo to right) or branches that are growing inward or straight up. Such branches will crowd the major scaffolding branches of the plant, reducing light penetration. The plant will not grow as well as be as healthy unless some of the excess is removed.
- To improve plant structure. Especially on a young tree, you may find you need to remove a double leader (see photo to left) or cut off branches growing from a narrow crotch angle or that are crowded on one side of the trunk.
It’s also important to remember that not all trees and shrubs should be pruned in late winter/early spring. If the plant is grown mainly for summer foliage, now is the time to prune. However, if the plant is grown for spring flowers – forsythia, lilac, spirea, crabapples, hawthorns, and dogwoods, to name a few – don’t prune now. These shrubs and trees should be pruned after flowering.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)